Say hello to | Ben Hughes, Photographer, who met with Alex from the team at COMMON ILKE VINTAGE to talk about his love of vintage clothing, in particular his Vintage 40s era WWII Foul Weather US Navy Dungarees.
Location | Tynemouth, North East England
Instagram | @BenHughesPhoto
Website | www.benhughesphoto.com
COMMON ILKE VINTAGE - What is it you love about vintage?
Ben Hughes - What I always look for is narrative. Photography projects I do or even just capturing stuff that the kids do is just narrative, and I think that the clothing you wear or buy is the same. Coming into the store and trying to find a piece that speaks to you is part of that whole story, like stuff that’s got tears, repairs or odd stains. I’ve got a lovely jacket that’s got oil stains on it and it looks like I’ve got a dirty coat on all the time but I like that because nobody else has got that same jacket.
C I V - What is it about the dungarees you are wearing that caught your eye?
B H - They’re a very out there piece, and I would never have thought that I would wear them as much as I do, but I find myself wearing them all the time. I find any excuse to go out in them and they go with everything which is great. I don’t get precious over stuff either, I don’t mind if I get marks on it because, to be fair, I’d probably prefer that, and plus I’ve just put my own stamp on it.
I’ve had a lot of funny compliments on them, the main one being, ‘Are you going fishing’, but you know what, I don’t care because I love them. Everyone should just wear what the hell they want at the end of the day. I think with vintage there is something that always breaks you in, you get the opportunity to find that one first piece that might be a little bit garish or off-piste from what you’d normally wear. But after that, and after the first few funny comments you might get back, you learn to brush that all off and from there you just fully go into buying vintage that appeals to you.
C I V - How do you style the dungarees?
B H - Not consciously but I think I’ve ended up with a wardrobe that is all green! So, I try to break things up with a blue worker or an orange T-shirt or a more colourful pair of trainers rather than a pair of Red Wing boots that I tend to wear all the time. You can throw them on when you're in a rush and I’ve got some versatile pieces to layer with that I’ll dress the dungarees up with.
C I V – Clothing that is made to last - what does it mean to you?
B H - Everything has slowed down a bit, everything seems a bit more considered, and it’s partly why I love film photography. You can’t just go out there and shoot 100 shots and hope that one of them is good, you have to slow down your process, and you could probably say the same when shopping for clothes as well. Rather than buying 10 t-shirts for the price of one really well made one, you might take the time to consider what you’re buying. You might even take the time to pick something that fits into your current wardrobe instead of buying a whole new wardrobe in a cheaper shop.
And I don’t know why or where it comes from but it’s always just been engrained in me to appreciate the old. It’s the same when it comes to my photography. I choose to shoot with film over digital, and even when it comes to cars, I favour the classics. And if I could drive any car, it would probably be an old Defender or an old Mustang. I even get the kids wearing vintage clothes all the time, and again, I don’t know where it comes from but I just favour old stuff over new, particularly stuff that is made to last.
I think even looking back at old photos or old family photos I always think the clothes look amazing and even the haircuts. And sometimes the photos aren’t technically great photos but they capture a time and the vintage clothes you sell in the store do the same. They reflect a time period and that also goes for the branded stuff that will one day take their place.
Now more than ever so many of us are looking past fast fashion and instead considering buying vintage and quality heritage clothing that is ‘made to last’.
Check out our latest in vintage and branded military kit here
Tell us about your own favourite pieces – info@commonilke.co.uk
]]>A New Style Of Working
Internationally renowned clothing designer Nigel Cabourn is used to travelling the globe in search of inspiration for his unique collections. But when the COVID-19 pandemic struck, his world was literally turned upside down. With his accustomed ability to source vintage garments and fabrics from all corners of the earth impeded, he instead turned to David Uddgren-Young and the riches of his COMMON ILKE VINTAGE store to maintain momentum across future ranges. Here, Steven Hugill learns how, while preserving the crucial fabric of human connection during detached times, their work is tacking out a framework for long-term success.....
Follow this link to see and read the rest of the interview over at NE Times.
A New Style Of Working | NE Times
Article by NE Times
September 2021
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Meet our customers and explore the individual beauty of their well-loved clothing that was ‘made to last’
Say hello to | Steven Landles, Photographer, who chatted with Alex from the team at COMMON ILKE VINTAGE about his favourite bit of vintage kit.
Location | Durham, North East England
Instagram | @StevenLandles
Website | www.stevenlandlesphotography.com
After priming me with dog treats in advance, Steven answered the door along with wide-eyed whippets ‘Beans’ and ‘Zippy’. Peace offerings accepted, we settled down to talk about our shared passion for vintage clothing. Steven’s vintage 60s era Hunting Jacket takes the top spot on his list of favourite vintage items.
COMMON ILKE VINTAGE - Tell us, why this particular vintage 60s era hunting jacket is so uniquely special to you?
Steven Landles - I love it simply because I’d never seen one quite like it before. It’s great to take something that is as functional as a hunting jacket from an era or a decade where it would have been used for its intended purpose and then being given the opportunity to have a new life.
I also love the orange pop because I’ve got a bit of an obsession with that colour. When we got our first dog ‘Beans’, we got him a bright orange jumper because it worked with his colouring and when I saw the hunting jacket, I knew I had to get it because it matched perfectly with his jumper.
The fact that it also came with a hunting licence attached was a bonus detail that adds so much more to the character of the jacket. Not to mention that the licence identified the jacket’s previous origin to Michigan - coincidental because I’ve got some friends from Michigan and I liked this connection.
S L - I’ve had so many people comment on the colour of the jacket. What’s great about it is that, without sounding like a total nerd, you can explain to them the era it’s from and where it’s from due to the hunting licence that came with it. And people are really interested, because there’s a history behind it. There’s also wear and tear throughout the jacket as well and you almost make up stories in relation to where it’s been and what it could have been used for because, naturally, you do wonder.
You also need to remember as well that even though the jacket has been dated to the 1960s that doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s had one owner in its life until it found me. It may have been worn by somebody else before me who appreciated it the way I did.
C I V - Is it an easy bit of kit to style up throughout the year?
S L - You can style it up in so many ways but a classic pair of Red Wings boots and a pair of heavy denim is perfect. Also, in the winter it’s not a particularly warm jacket but it’s great because it’s so easy to layer up with loads of stuff like a good denim jacket or a camo jacket underneath it. The only restriction I have is deciding what bandana I want to accessorise it with because the orange is so bright.
C I V - What is it about vintage that keeps you coming back for more?
S L - With vintage, the idea of nurturing or breathing life back into something is really appealing to me. And the idea of just throwing something away is quite sad. So, it’s great to have you guys actively sourcing vintage, for people like me, that has the character within it that can be appreciated and given a new life.
Now more than ever so many of us are looking past fast fashion and instead considering buying vintage and quality heritage clothing that is ‘made to last’.
Check out our latest in vintage and branded hunting gear here
Tell us about your own favourite pieces – info@commonilke.co.uk
The History Of The Navy Peacoat
The famous peacoat has been around since the 1800s when the first variation was worn by the Dutch. The Dutch were a seafaring power centuries ago and in order to help their sailors they developed a heavy and dark wool coat called a "piijekker". In Dutch, "pij" (apparently pronounced "pea") is the word for coarse, twilled cloth while "jekker" means "jacket". And while the Dutch are credited for inventing the peacoat the credit for popularising the iconic jacket goes to the British Navy.
C.I.V History | The Navy Peacoat
Article by COMMON ILKE VINTAGE
October 2020
The hook for many naval forces using the peacoat was because the coat itself could withstand harsh rain, wind and cold temperatures that were typically experienced out at sea. The US navy adopted the peacoat from their British counterparts. The coat was used for ‘reefers’ who were sailors responsible for the somewhat unpopular task of climbing up the rigging of naval ships.
Between the Dutch, British and American naval forces the peacoat kept its wind resistant form and shape. As well as keeping a slight flair towards the hips in order to allow for free and unhindered movements when climbing the ropes at sea. Most coats were also double breasted and featured an ulster collar, which could be buttoned all the way up to further protect the wearer from harsh elements. Most jackets also featured vertical slit pockets to allow access to personal items as well as allowing hands to stay warm and dry. Nearly all peacoats featured plastic and sometimes brass buttons which were imprinted with a fouled anchor.
So whenever the mercury starts to drop and you go grasping for a jacket why not consider the peacoat. Because let’s face it, a jacket that has been used within the military for over 100 years is a jacket that has earned more than just its’s stripes. It’s an iconic bit of kit that is worthy of our shoulders and a timeless piece that can be handed down from generation to generation.
These belting pieces are available in-store and will be cropping up online very soon.
The Infamous Swedish Sheepskin
The Swedish Sheepskin. An iconic bit of kit and an absolute unit of a jacket. Originally made for WWII, but in production well into the 70s, the M1909 has cavernous, rucksack-like pockets which cater for all your survival needs. Versions like the ones featured were made for the Swedish army, and let's face it - if it copes with a Swedish winter it will cope with our British one.
C.I.V History | Swedish Sheepskin
Article by COMMON ILKE VINTAGE
October 2020
A daunting jacket
It’s a jacket that is surprisingly comfortable to wear given its daunting presence and look. One of the most interesting aspects of the Swedish sheepskin is that the design didn't change much from the late 19th century to the 1970s when they were taken out of service.
War and peace
The fact that Sweden didn't participate in any major wars during this era might be the main reason for the lack of further development. That being said does the jacket really need developing? If it gets any more resilient and warm people will start living in them.
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Like many classic pieces of outerwear, the fishtail parka has roots within military. The standard issue cold weather parka in the 1940s was the N3-B or snorkel parka, but the cold and wet conditions of Korea meant that a warmer coat for American troops was needed during the Korean War...
C.I.V History | Fishtail Parka
Article by COMMON ILKE VINTAGE
October 2020
Back to the drawing board
The Army designers went back to the drawing board and developed the M-1951 Cold Weather Parka as a result. The key concern for the US military during the Korean War was to keep the soldiers warm and agile without wearing a thick and restricting piece of outwear. The fishtail parka accomplished these needs with a three-quarter length, so it could keep someone’s entire body warm without hindering their movement.
The famous fishtail
The jacket was constructed out of waterproof nylon and cotton, so Korean snow and rain would roll off the jacket. But the true innovation came from the split in the back of the jacket with a drawstring on each hem. The wearer could tie each half of the split around each leg, this trapped more heat and kept the wind out. Many GIs thought the split looked like the tail of a fish, and thus the fishtail name was born.
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After a 20-year career working in menswear, David Uddgren-Young established his own clothing store near Manchester before relocating to the North East in October, where he has opened Common Ilke in the iconic Tynemouth Station. David’s ethos is to showcase high-quality vintage clothes alongside complementary new products, which stand the test of time...
Follow this link to see and read the rest of the interview over at NE Times.
Clothes With A Story To Tell | NE Times
Article by NE Times
October 2020
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‘Out And About’ is series of chats with people we've gotten to know through our store in Tynemouth. We've been lucky enough to meet so many interesting people from different walks of life since we opened our doors. The series is a 'you've been to see us, let us come to you' concept - borne out of curiosity to find out more about our customers. It’s our pleasure to bring you their stories intertwined with info on the kit they love to wear.
Out And About | 6 BARRELS
Article by COMMON ILKE VINTAGE
August 2020
6 BARRELS is a great local beer and ale distributor situated in North Shields, England. We met owner Neil when he popped into our store way back before lockdown occurred and he carried on his love for COMMON ILKE VINTAGE clobber during and after lockdown eased.
Can you tell us a little about your background and how you got into the brewery industry?
Well, I’ve always liked beer and even before the craft beer boom I was always trying out independent craft beer and ale makers. I was also disillusioned with the corporate world I was in prior to starting up 6 BARRELS. So myself and my wife put or heads together and started to think about what we could do. Feeding off my love for independent craft beer and ale I decided to set up 6 BARRELS in order to bridge the gap between these great independent makers and local sellers. We started out in the simplest way we knew how. We bought some beer, bought a van, rented the unit we are in now and then we started knocking on doors. The Crown Pasada in Newcastle was the first place that bought beer from us, it was also the first place we went to. I thought ‘God this is easy, I’ll be sold out by next week’. Soon after that reality set in and we got a few no’s but we’ve carried on and things are going great.
If you had to drink one beer or ale for the rest of your life what would it be and why?
God…I do literally change my mind all the time. However, if I had to pick one to drink for the rest of my life it would be Lagonda IPA by Marble Beers. It was named after a car owned by the boss’s father; a beautiful looking car, and they’ve been brewing the beer for years so they’ve got the recipe perfected. It’s not a massively hoppy beer, it’s just a classic proper beer, you know a beer that just tastes like beer.
How has lockdown changed your working day to day?
We were left with a lot of stock and the biggest part of our business are the casks. It felt like squeaky bum time so we decided to press on and go straight to the customer. We started up a home delivery service for beers and ales. It was better to make a little money than no money and it allowed us to connect with a wider audience and existing customers. It’ll be great when we can get the distribution back up and running to full capacity but for now it's great to be able to adapt and carry on.
What do you get up to during your down time? What keeps you feeling positive and motivated?
I got back into my cycling. It’s kept me sane. It was lovely at the start of lockdown going out on the roads and there being no cars. So now that the cars are back I’ve been getting up at 5 in the morning just to carry on the enjoyment of cycling on quiet roads.
I’ve had the opportunity to spend more time with my daughter, taking her out on the bike, going to the park, having picnics, making a big positive out of a negative.
What are you looking forward to doing more of?
I really enjoy music so I can’t wait to go to a gig. It doesn’t matter who it is really as long as it’s just someone I like. I did have tickets to see Michael Kiwanuka before lockdown, so I couldn’t see him which was a shame. The last gig I went to was Chemical Brothers back in December, so yes it would be great to get back to one. Even if it’s just something small, just somebody singing you know, people around you enjoying themselves, the atmosphere of it all. I miss that.
We know you’re a fan of the shop, do you have a favourite item of ours that you’ve bought?
I remember the first time I found COMMON ILKE VINTAGE and it was by chance. I walked passed the window, something caught my eye and I thought ‘That looks like a bit of me’ so I just popped in. The pants I’ve got on now are one of my favourite bits of kit, they just go with everything and they fit great. My wife bought me this shirt through lockdown, not sure why really, maybe as a pick me up because I lost a friend during lockdown to Covid, so yes it was a lovely gift to receive. I love a good print. I think I definitely need to get back on the old Hawaiians as well before summer ends.
6 BARRELS now offer a takeaway service at their unit in North Shields from Friday 3pm-7pm and Saturday 2pm-8pm. We’ve tried and tested it, like all great beer lovers should, and we can safely say the beer is top drawer.
Location | Northumberland Street, North Shields, NE30
Instagram | @_6_barrels
Website | www.6barrels.co.uk
]]>Two icons of design Henri Lloyd and Nigel Cabourn have came together to create a curated range of outerwear inspired by the technical world of sailing. With enough Cabourn signature utilitarian details that you can shake a fist at, the collection sits as comfortably on land as it does at sea. Created and interpreted by Nigel Cabourn after diving head first into the Henri-Lloyd archives, he has turned 60’s inspired pieces into 21st century classics. If like us you are sailing virgins and haven’t tamed the cruel mistress that is the sea, never fear, as the collection weaves perfectly into your everyday attire and will weather many a seasonal storm.
The Spray Jacket is the first offering of collaborative joy. Using a traditional 4oz Nylon outer fabric with a breathable waterproof coating, seams are fully taped to create a waterproof, windproof and breathable jacket. The standout feature of the coat is the detachable single compartment bag on the back featuring a large ‘HL’ logo. As we aren’t sailing aficionados over at COMMON ILKE we can only wonder what the bag was originally created for. Thats something only the masters of the sea will know. However, we think it could be a bag for your jacket. Some sort of utilitarian inception for when it just isn’t rainy or cold enough for a waterproof. The limits are endless.
The second piece of collaborative joy is The Deck Jacket. A shorter cut with a biker jacket silhouette. With a no collar design and a button-up latch on the throat, harking back to classic workwear styles, the jacket is crafted from an impressive coated waterproof breathable 4oz nylon fabric, and the jacket is fully seam sealed. Featuring two bellow pockets and a welded sleeve pocket with removable branded patch, and embroidered elastic hem detail, the jacket has definitely earned its right to sail into any wardrobe as a versatile vintage inspired staple. While your wrapping your head around the endless details might we also add that it also looks great on.
For the final piece of the utilitarian puzzle we give you The Technical Sweater. The foundation for many an outfit, with exaggerated ribbed hem and cuffs and expertly embroidered front logo, the sweater adds a subtle touch of nautica to your everyday attire. Made with a premium loopback cotton for that extra dose of comfort, you'll definitely be getting use out of this bad lad. If that doesn’t sound versatile enough we also offer it in 3 different colours, Old Red, Emerald Green and White Stone. Consider the boat well and truly rocked.
We sell clothes of a COMMON ILKE, they're all high quality vintage, or complementary goods. The ILKE spelling is the old English spelling that still has an ‘E’ on the end. Sounds old, like vintage, and so we liked that.
Our inspiration for the design was all based on heritage military and naval design. In the future we plan to develop our own brand of military and naval functional clothing and wanted to carry this theme through. Our family has a connection with maritime too; with both grandfathers skippering or serving on ships and sadly losing their lives on what would have been their last voyage - we wanted to pay tribute to them.
To create the design, we enlisted the help of talented professional design duo Mandy & Mark Reid-Foster of Submarine. They made sure we gave them a proper brief and then got to work bringing it to life for us. We can't thank them enough for their thoroughness and the care they took, not to mention their patience to create our brand identity. Here's a pic of their glamorous mugs. @submarine_uk |
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LOGO The logo marque is embedded in the logotype and has been developed from two ideas. The letters C and I from the maritime signal flag alphabet have been stylised to form a letter E and O. When added to the logotype and stacked, the two letters resemble a stylised naval sleeve insignia, in this case the three stripes of a commander. |
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COLOUR We introduced a secondary colour palette to support the primary colours, to be used across marketing materials. |
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GRAPHICS Graphics were then added be used across design and photography. |